Show & Tell
Photography by Ryan Brabazon (@ryanbrabazon) @ 2DM Management
Styling by Bodo Ernle (@bodorockt) @ Nina Klein Agency
Editor Rosie Daly (@rosiemdc)
Model(s) Nick Schotten @ nest model management (Berlin)
#Damur
Name: Damur Huang
Hometown: damur.fashion
Instagram: @damurfashion
In less than 150 characters, how would you describe your design philosophy or brand aesthetic?
The meaning of our design style is to relay messages which rely on each respective collections’ theme. We are constantly hosting a progressive discussion between high-end fashion and streetwear. Our hashtag logo is an integral part of our brand DNA; its prevalence on the Internet aided in forming the company’s essence.
What is your signature? Are there any elements or themes that reoccur in your design?
Each collection is about the discussion and message of breaking through current societal stereotypes and controversial social issues. We deliver uplifting and empowering messages through each collection’s specific design style and encourage people to voice their opinion and just love the way they are through our clothing.
When did you know that this was what you wanted to do with your life? How did you get started?
When I was in my mother’s belly, haha. I guess when you know, you just know.
What is your design process?
Initially, there’s a lot of research before even having an idea of our new collection theme. We research about hot topics in society and carry out a survey to take our audience’s opinion. Then, we gather inspiration through various ways like reading, watching videos, going to the museums and look through various pictures till we have an idea of what and how we want to showcase our theme. Finally, we put everything down on a sheet of paper and start sketching!
Do you design with a specific client in mind? If so, who is that person?
Our customers include anyone that uses the hashtag in daily life: opinionated people who aim to express themselves through fashion.
What have been the biggest professional challenges you’ve faced?
MONEY MONEY MONEY! Honestly, fashion is a stressful business. There’s always a challenge and in the process, you learn how to deal with it. I know I am still learning.
How do you see your work evolving? What are you hoping/aiming for and what are you trying to avoid?
Right now, the aim is to have a 10 am to 6 pm working environment for the young generation who are passionate about the fashion industry. Train them, learn new ideas from them and let the inspiration flow.
What are you currently working on/excited about?
We are elated for the public release of our 006 collection, “You Are Not Black Enough,” in stores in January 2020! We recently showcased the collection at our first runway show at Berlin Fashion Week in July, which was a huge step for the company. #DAMUR is really looking forward to expanding our breadth within the international high-fashion market!
Teddy Glickman
Name: Teddy Glickman
Hometown: teddyglickman.com
Instagram: @teddy.glickman
What are your earliest memories involving fashion?
When I was a teenager, I used to watch these videos called ModTV, which were primarily about the top models working then (Freja, Coco, Gemma, etc.) and I loved how they would match clips of them walking the runway with euro dance tracks, and show them posing in front of a storm of camera flashes. It was catnip for my young gay brain. I wanted to live it, it looked so glamorous. At the time I was attending public school just outside of Washington D.C., and I was like “I’m a celebrity, get me out of here.” I don’t want to live that anymore though, I just want a quiet life with five houses, a household staff, and private air travel.
Do you design with a specific client in mind? If so, who is that person?
I do design with a specific client in mind. It’s a client I met at a friend’s country house in the Swedish archipelago. Let’s call him Lars. He’s an older gentleman, inclined to the finer things in life. He has a weakness for opera (NOT contemporary opera) and has a bit of balletomania. He has no passion for politics (“I was never the one holding a sign behind a barricade”), though he is not interested in antiquated thinking–just antiques. And if you’re asking, French Empire style is his specialty.
How do you see your work evolving? What are you hoping/aiming for and what are you trying to avoid?
I see my work evolving to a more research-heavy approach. When I started I wanted to make attractive clothes, but this started to feel a bit hollow. With my last collection on the Shakers, I rediscovered how enjoyable it is to become obsessed with a certain topic and read everything about it. I think research becomes fun once you know all the basic info about a topic, so then you can start to appreciate the nuance. And what am I trying to avoid? One word… trends. I never want to be associated with a particular trend. Trendy plus three years equals ridiculous. I would know, I live in Berlin.
What are you currently looking at, researching, listening to or reading for inspiration?
Currently, I’m going through a reading list provided by the V&A on late medieval/early renaissance art. I never cared for art from this time period, it was the section in museums that I would always skip, until one morning I wandered into the National Gallery in Washington DC after a breakfast that included psilocybin, and for the first time saw the depth and complexity in the art: the color symbolism, the narrative aspect, the erotic tension in the overtly religious. Since then this has been my hobby, learning about art from this time period.
Do you have any words of wisdom for someone starting out in your field?
Be rich or marry rich, and if you choose the latter, it’s preferable that your partner be old and/or with a terminal illness. Just kidding, but actually, it does take a small fortune to make it happen the traditional way unless you’re really well connected, have a famous last name (consider making one up if you don’t) or a particular talent for IG. Going to a Central Saint Martins or Parsons never hurt anybody (except for the student debt), and working at a label for some years would be wise. Besides that, be bold and do it differently. The old model is gone, and everyone’s scrambling to find a new one that works.